Monday, October 31, 2011

Vietnam

Day 1: Lauren and I spent the first morning exploring Ho Chi Minh City. The city is so beautiful and nice- very commercial, but clean with city parks breaking up the hectic markets and endless buildings.  It is a bit difficult to navigate because the blocks are not square and the language barrier prevents asking for help, but we got along well enough. The traffic is absolutely absurd and I’m still in disbelief that I never witnessed an accident. Upon exiting the port, we opted out of taxi cars and vans and hopped on the back of two motorcycles. I’ve never been on a motorcycle and have always been fairly opposed to them. Something about being in such a different place changes your mindset and I now love them. The key to not being hit in the streets is consistency and confidence. If you hesitant and turn around, or change your speed, you risk being hit from every direction. The Vietnamese do a fantastic job at judging your speed and exactly when you’ll be where so they know whether to go before or behind you. It is a bit slower than the States’ traffic, even though the frenzy makes it appear like everyone is moving at 100 mph at all times. The motorcycle drivers drove us through the city, giving us a little tour. We got on and off several times, and they waited patiently. We bargained the price nonstop (Lauren and I are getting very good- and stingy). On one of my dismounts, I touched my calf to the exhaust pipe. We had all been warned about the “Vietnamese kiss” and I had been very careful but the second I let my guard down, I was taught the lesson firsthand. Luckily I brushed it and did not apply any real pressure. The skin instantly fell off- I have never had a wound like this… it’s not pretty. The nurse has checked on it every day since and apparently it’s fine but taking care of it ended up being a pain throughout the rest of the week. Surprisingly, it wasn’t that painful and I was able to do everything I had planned on (including many more motorcycle rides)- it looked a lot worse than it felt. Lauren and I went to the American War Museum (The Vietnam war to us), which was pretty cool. Dad- you know how I am with history. The facts and figures were a little over my head but I was really interested in the floor dedicated to Agent Orange information. I spent most of my time here, looking at pictures and reading the stories of those affected. The scale and variety of disfigurements caused by the chemical is mind-blowing. It has caused conjoined twins, humans born without any limbs, and people whose whole faces are mutilated. The biggest shock was that Agent Orange affects the genes of those who come in contact with it. This means that children of soldiers and civilians who are born today are severely changed by it.

Before arriving in Vietnam, we listened to two speeches by professors on the ship that served in the war. Both had incredibly ill feelings towards it and discussed how they have not been able to forgive the US government. They felt betrayed and to this day, disagree with everything that we did as a country and feel like they are in great debt to the Vietnamese. Although I knew that this was a common feeling towards this specific war, I had never heard such a passionate account from someone who experienced it so first-hand. Watching them tear up and speak about the hatred they still possess for the governing body of the country they still live in because of the contact we had with this one country, was a very real introduction to Vietnam.

After the Museum, Lauren and I went on a SAS trip to the Cu Chi tunnels. The tunnels are about two hours away from the port; looking out the window on the way was pretty eye opening. I feel like we are pretty hardened to poverty and different lifestyles after the countries that we have already visited. To me, the big difference in Vietnam is the contrast between the people and their environment. The women drive motorcycles in high heels, wearing classy makeup and nice clothing. Their appearance is clearly of great to value of them, which just seems a bit odd to me because they are straddling a dirty motorcycle, winding through crowded streets on their way from one shockingly impoverish place to the next. The houses lining the streets are similar to ones in India. They appear to be reliable structures, but they are all very grimy and look like they are quite crowded. On the way to the tunnels, we stopped to have lunch at a beautiful restaurant. The traditional food was incredible and I really loved sampling everything that they had to offer, including the sautéed morning glory that was a lot like spinach. From here on out, most every sit-down meal in Vietnam was multiple courses. They serve everything family-style and bring out the courses one-by-one. Afterwards, we drove to the tunnels. I’m very glad that we went to the tunnels on the same day as visiting the museum because I think that it gave us a more all-at-once, comprehensive feeling about it. Many kids have said that visiting the tunnels was an emotional, overwhelming trip but regrettably, I didn’t feel that. Unfortunately, our tour guide made it pretty touristy and didn’t focus as much on serious topics. Some of us did the walk/crawl through the maze of tunnels, which got tighter and tighter as they went on. The tunnels are incredibly small and make it really hard to believe that they were a regular transportation system in the soldiers’ lives. We learned that each small hole or entrance to the structure is designated for only four to five soldiers. If many enter one location, than it will be easier to detect. That way, the enemy isn’t able to distinguish which locations are, in fact, openings. I was shocked to hear that when soldiers died, the bodies were mounted on the inside of the tunnel walls. Not only does this lessen the already minimal amount of space already offered to crawl through, but also the smells and hygiene prepared through this technique is mind blowing. Some kids paid to shoot AK47 guns. I didn’t shoot but I wanted to go down and hangout with my friends that did and shoot one of their bullets, so I walked down without earmuffs. That was a huge mistake and my ears were ringing for quite awhile. We headed back to the ship and got ready to go out. A huge group of us piled in taxi vans and confusedly found a street with a lot of bars. My group ended up at an Irish pub and we stayed there for a while. The band was fantastic and we really enjoyed ourselves. I ended up talking to a Korean man who lives and works in Vietnam, who owns a company that transforms factories and makes them “green”, or environmentally friendly. His major clients are Nike and Adidas. He gave me his business card and demanded that if any American students run into any trouble, he be the first to get a call. We went to a club afterwards called Apocalypse Now, which was absolutely absurd. People who have been to big clubs in New York were saying that this night blew all of those out of the water. Hundreds of Semester at Sea kids (everyone I know) was there and we had a great time. The music was familiar and we were extremely excited to be celebrating our first night out in such a different, crazy country.

Day 2:
I never even laid down that night. I came home around 2:30am, hung out with friends, showered and packed, and got ready for our 4am departure for the airport. When I got to the meeting point, I realized that people were missing so I had to go and knock on all their doors, only to find most of them still asleep. They rallied and I helped them pack, leaving fairly quickly. At the airport, we ran into other friends and I sat and ate pho in the airport. We flew to Ha Noi and saw Ho Chi Minh’s resting place, as well as pagodas, another museum, and various temples and cool structures. They were all pretty close so we got to see a lot in a short amount of time. Some of this was hectic because SAS trips always feel a bit like they’re trying to heard cattle.
Then, we had a four-hour bus ride to Ha Long Bay, arriving at a restaurant for dinner. It was amazing and I ate the courses blindly, completely ignorant to what they were. A staple food that I was a little hesitant about was the fried, whole fish that was constantly offered. Above the restaurant, there was a rowdier section where a bunch of Vietnamese businessmen were eating and drinking heavily. There were no women and the thirty or so men were clearly enjoying themselves. It was interesting to see because apparently that’s how Vietnamese conduct business- by partying very hard. We headed back to the 5-star hotel and checked in. A few people went to the night market but I laid down and fell asleep instantly.

Day 3:
We had breakfast at the hotel and immediately headed to Ha Long Bay for our four-hour junk boat ride. The boat had two decks and was very nice, giving us a great place to witness one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. It was very foggy, which gave it a magical feeling. Floating fish markets and many bizarre looking boats surrounded us as we made our way to the center. There were dramatic rock formations jutting out of the water, which made the whole scene look a lot like Avatar (the Avatar set was made after Ha Long Bay). Ha Long Bay is so hyped up and it really is amazing but, I have to say, Malaysia was probably, in my eyes, more beautiful and shocking. We did get off the boat and hike up through a cave that was much bigger than those that I saw in Malaysia. We had lunch on boat back- another multiple-course seafood meal. I have never had most of what was offered but I tried it all and liked most of it. Afterwards, we did the long drive back to Ha Noi. About halfway through, I started feeling really sick and we had to pull over. We were in the middle of nowhere but I felt like getting fresh air and having a break from the bumpy drive for a minute or two would do me good. I was very wrong and immediately got sick. I ran towards fields but didn’t make it and vomited all over the side of a house. I felt so bad because the bus was leaving and I didn’t have time to clean anything. Imagine if some tourist came driving through your town and pulled over to throw up on the side of your house and left. I still feel horrible. We only had to stop one more time and then I felt a lot better. We’ve been to seven countries and I’ve gotten sick in three. I am getting so good at getting sick. It might just be this environment because there’s always someone vomiting or feeling really sick or badly injured, but I feel pretty invincible after some of these experiences with bizarre meals. We made it back to the hotel, checked in, and left for dinner. The dinner was similar to the ones we have had but I sat with the ship’s doctor’s family. They have two sons, are from Colorado, and are wonderful. I’m so grateful that she was on the trip to help me when I got sick and with my burn, but more than that, I just loved getting to know them. The sons are ten and twelve and are incredibly mature and hilarious. It was a very fun dinner and afterwards, we went to a water puppet show. I honestly had no idea what the premise of the show was but, from what I gathered, I think that it was a collection of short pieces, most of which were derived from proverbs. The band off to the side that supplied the music for the whole performance did not have the typical American showmanship. They chewed their nails, talked with one another, and looked extremely bored whenever they weren’t performing. This was interesting because we take for granted a certain amount of attention and willingness of performers in the states, and this was not exemplified here in the slightest. We returned to the hotel and three of us walked about Ha Noi for a while before bed. It was late but the city was still very awake and active. We walked through a billiards pub, beer gardens and streets upon streets of locals, sitting on low plastic chairs, playing cards and spending time with one another. I really liked the vibe but it was hard for us to interact with locals. In Vietnam as a whole, I had a difficult time spending any time or connecting with the Vietnamese people. In every other country, if I smiled, it was usually reciprocated and conversations or friendships ensued. In Vietnam, they did not return smiles or waves and in no way tried to communicate with us. They stared sometimes but mainly ignored us. The only time I had any contact was when someone would come up and push us from behind in order to get through, illustrating their blatant disregard for personal space or, in my opinion, respect. I realize that it’s a cultural thing but after being to so many other countries that are equally, if not more, different, I didn’t expect this. We headed back to the hotel and I stayed up until about 3 just talking with my trip roommate. I didn’t know many people before this trip but I ended up making a few friends that I really liked and she was one of them.

Day 4: Three of us decided to opt out of the city tour and explore on our own. We found a spa and one girl got a massage. The other guy and I walked around the city, poking our heads in shops and watching food be made in the streets. I was overwhelmed by the smells and the crowdedness of the people. Again, I felt like they didn’t have any interest in us being there and, even, disliked us. It was pouring rain so we jumped on a motorcycle and headed back to the hotel. After emailing, packing, and relaxing, we realized that the girl who had gone to get a massage was about an hour later than when she said she would be back. I personally would have never stayed there by myself so I, of course, feared the worst. There was nothing we could do so we got lunch in the hotel lobby and waited for her. She ended up getting back (she had gotten lost) just in time to make the bus for the airport. At the airport, I was randomly selected to complete a one-on-one interview survey with a Ha Noi transportation representative about how I felt about the airport. It lasted a long time and dealing with the language barrier proved to be quite difficult. The plane was huge: three sections of nine seats in total in each row. The woman that I sat next to was by far the worst plane mate I had ever had- worse than obese people, sick people, and even crying children. She was a small Vietnamese girl, about my age, who had such a different idea regarding the concept of a personal bubble that it was astonishing. She laid on me, completely awake, like I was an old friend or family member. She just threw her body over the armrest and rested on me the whole time. Completely in shock with no idea what to do, I would push her back every now and then, but she would just smile and come right back. It was bizarre and I still have no idea what was going on. We made it back to the ship but didn’t get on and went straight to a sushi restaurant right outside of port. This was the first of three nights in a row that I ate here- it was SO good. (Kate- I can’t even tell you how sad I was that you weren’t my sushi date☹ ). There was a Heart Attacks Maki roll that had a bunch of unidentified stuff and was beyond spicy but amazing. (Dad- my taste buds are extending big time over here. I was the only kid that could handle the spice. Still not up for cooked-at-home fish, though, so don’t get too excited). We went back to the ship and got ready for the night. I took a motorcycle with my friend Brian to the Backpackers’ District- an intersection of about 8 bars and clubs that is just madness. All of them are multiple stories, bumping loud music, and crammed with people. This street is famous because it is where travelers and backpackers stop to get incredibly cheap drinks. At one of the smaller bars called Lily’s, they have $1 buckets of mixed drinks that were about the size of my head. Not a good idea for 700 college kids that are stuck on a boat with no alcohol and make up for it in port. That night I ran into a group of my best guy friends on the ship, who were celebrating a Bachelor Party. My friend Colin was having a fake wedding the next night so celebrated with them for a while and had a fantastic night. I got a Hello Kitty balloon as a tribute to Nicole because it’s her favorite and brought it with me everywhere that night. “Nicole” is in every SAS picture and video taken that night- everyone loved her and was quite jealous.
Day 5:
This was my favorite day in Vietnam. I woke up and went with a group to the Mekong Delta. We spent the day going to markets, experiencing the culture in a variety of ways, and travelling around the delta through a many transportation methods. We took several different riverboats, threading through the different waterways and stopping off at many points to do different things. We went to a big market that offered a melting pot of every product imaginable from fruits to smelly fish to sunglasses and baby clothing. We went to a fruit tasting and music show and a place where they showed us how to make coconut candy (which tastes great but smells horribly). Five of us took a ride from one side to the other in a cart pulled by a horse. We also went on a bike ride with a bigger group that was more difficult than I thought it would be. The bikes were old, rusting cruisers and we were attempting to ride over terrain that consisted of one-third dirt, one-third mud, and one-third concrete with potholes. At one point, a kid in our group went over the trail into a ditch. Apparently he was trying to steer one-handed while taking a picture- a very bold move. He wasn’t hurt but he was soaked in whatever what was in the ditch. Let’s just say that no one sat next to him on the bus ride home. The bike ride was my favorite because when he fell, the few of us at the end stopped so we got broken up from the rest of the group. It was a little frightening because we were so lost in such a confusing place, but it ended up being fun getting directions from locals and figuring it out by ourselves. Our lunch was Vietnamese rolls!! (Tiffany- I was a rock star with these because I taught everyone how to do them so thanks for making me look good. I have to say, yours are a lot better. It was super cool because we ate them in such a pretty, authentic place but the meat was fish that we pulled off of a fried, whole fish. The crunchy scales put a bit of a damper on the whole thing). Anyways, the day was extremely fun and we headed back to the ship in time for the big wedding! I napped and got ready on the ship for about an hour and then headed over to the venue with my friend Colleen. Colin and Ashley had rented out two side-by-side venues, one for dinner and one for the ceremony. It was decorated beautifully and looked like an actual wedding. It was a white tablecloth, black tie affair. A lot of girls had had dresses made and guys had their snazzy tailored suits on. We had dinner, drinks and toasted to the happy, fake couple all night. I think that the staff thought that this was a real wedding, otherwise I’m sure they would have thought us to be crazy, spoiled Americans- which, in fact, we really are (emphasis on crazy). They take US dollars in Vietnam so I paid for my dinner with a $10 bill. There was quite a lot of hubbub because they fussed and wouldn’t let me pay for it because of the small tear on one corner. It was my only bill and I was being stubborn and disbelieving and I’m still quite angry at the way they handled it. The ceremony was short and sweet, with a lot of dancing, drunken cheers, and yelling. It was hilarious to watch and I’ll never forget it. Afterwards, a few of us girls ran back to the ship and changed out of our dresses and heels. We decided last minute to replace them with makeshift Halloween costumes. A few girls wore jerseys and were sports players; I was a Harujuku girl with my friend Erin- we just wore bright clothes and makeup with pigtails and pink circles on our faces. I realized later that this could be a little culturally insensitive because Harujuku is so big in Japan and it could be interpreted as clumping all Asian countries together, but I don’t think anyone noticed. Erin and I felt a bit crazy because we were bar hopping in Ho Chi Minh City, the only ones wearing Halloween costumes, two days early. Woopsies! My friend Colleen and I went by Pizza Hut and I honestly think that the rest of this night was so amazing solely because we wore sneakers out. We went back to the Backpackers’ District- I’m now a big believer in the fact that there’s nothing better in the world than RUNNING through the streets of Saigon from bar to bar with all of your friends. We ended up meeting a bunch of guys from New Zealand that are backpacking through Asia and hanging out with them for most of the night. It was an insanely fun night on that Saigon intersection. Throughout this whole day and night I just kept thinking about how absurd our lives are. This is ten times better than any movie I’ve ever seen or any story I could ever tell. We got home at 5am.

Day 6:
I slept in a little bit and it felt pretty weird considering that that never happens while in port. I walked out and found that a lot of other people had done the same- the night before had taken its toll. I went with my roommate and other friend Analise to a coffee shop and to pick up jackets at a tailor that Lauren had made. We walked around and ended up at a sushi restaurant where we had another amazing meal. I’ve found that this is my comfort food and what I miss most about home. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner in Japan? I think so. Afterwards, we went to Saigon Square and shopped around for fake goods. I bought a Northface rain jacket for $20 and DVDs for 50 cents each. It was overwhelmingly crowded and everyone was massively pushy. I liked how they didn’t hassle you to purchase goods but I almost missed that about some other countries because they weren’t eager to sell, so they didn’t negotiate or lower a lot of prices. We then went to Ben Thanh market- a bit of a tourist trap but still fun. We didn’t stay there for long- I needed shampoo so I got that for $1 and kept walking. On the first day in Vietnam, I had seen a big, wooden anchor clock when we were driving through the busy streets. As you all know, any DG loves anything anchor related and I’ve been on a hunt to find it ever since to buy for my room at school. I had given up at this point, but as we were walking out of the market, I saw one! I was overjoyed and didn’t even bargain- such a great moment. (Kate and Nicole- you’re going to die. I also found a cute hat with an anchor that says D&G on the back). We then went to a massage place that was surprisingly clean and nice. I had to be very careful because I couldn’t get any water or anything else on the burn on my leg but they understood and were very accommodating. I got a manicure and pedicure for $5 total. Some girls got $10 70-minute massages and they said they were the best that they had ever had. There were some stiletto- dawning women that went in and out of the other massage rooms who probably had less than wholesome intentions but we looked the other way. I hurried back to the ship right after and met up with a group of friends that I had ran into earlier that day. We went to sushi (for the second time that day and fourth of the trip). It was clear that all of SAS had the same idea because the restaurant was packed. The guys that just wanted to drink and hangout went next door to a steakhouse, but I stayed to get my last fix with Lindsay. We had a fun girl date at the sushi bar, meeting a lot of people and complaining about the restaurant’s unpreparedness. Out of the three rolls that we ordered, they were out of two. They did not expect all this business and the waitresses were literally running. Afterwards, we went to the steak house and found that our friends had had the right idea. It was actually the restaurant opening next door so all of the appetizers, beer, and wine was free. We sang karaoke and danced with Vietnamese that were having their family reunion there, (I think? I didn’t really understand). We headed back home to make on-ship time at 9pm. Usually on-ship time on the last day is 6pm but it was late so everyone was pretty tipsy, donning all of their fake Northface jackets and purses in mass amounts, running around the boat. It was a very fun homecoming and we danced in the hallways, talking about what had happened this past week. The rooms here are smaller than the smallest dorms at UO but everyone is so close that it doesn’t matter at all. We brought mattresses in one room and had a massive sleepover. I left to come back to my room around 4:30 because I woke up to Wendy snoring and the room reeking of sweaty boy. I came back and couldn’t sleep because I am just so pumped on all of these people and the experiences that we are having.

There was a lot of things that I wanted to accomplish in Vietnam and didn’t. I definitely want to come back very soon. I think that a backpacking trip through Southeast Asia would be amazing- I loved Malaysia, there is still tons to do in Vietnam, and I would love to visit Cambodia and Laos. Who knows- maybe China and Japan will be added on to this list. I’m getting a job right when I get back to start saving for these trips. LIFE IS GOOD.

I really noticed the bizarreness of the conversations that regularly exist between SAS kids on this trip. “Remember that one night in India…” and “What are your plans for China?” are common conversations. They are asked with the same inflection and tone that we used to ask about which fraternity we’re going to that night or what the homework is merely a few months ago. LIFE IS ABSURD.


HALLOWEEN:
Halloween is today! This boat is made up of kids who are all the type that dress up BIG every year, but there is just so much going on, that it’s hard to plan. There’s a big party on board that will be very fun but I had nothing planned to wear. I was just talking to Dante, our cabin steward (who cleans our rooms) and he agreed to give me his uniform and nametag so I’ll be rocking that tonight. I am so beyond excited and will be spending the afternoon figuring out a wig or hair dye of some sort so that I have black hair. Go big or go home?

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Malaysia

I didn’t know much about Malaysia prior to arriving. The general consensus was that it was going to be much more of a vacation, and far less shocking than many other ports. The itinerary sandwiched Malaysia in between India and Vietnam, both of which are regarded as monumental and extremely culturally shocking. We only had three days there and we had no idea what there was to do, so I didn’t plan much. A lot of kids even planned to fly to Singapore and spend their time there. This was such a great example of how much expectations play into your experiences. I had zero expectations and this ended up being my favorite port. There have already been many countries that I want to visit again, but I am most eager to come back to Malaysia.

The night before arriving in Malaysia, most people realized that no one knew what to do and that plans should probably be considered. There had only been three days since India and the recovering process was lengthier than expected. We googled “Malaysia tourism” and “Things to do in Malaysia” and found an island called Langkawi that looked very fun. Word spread like wildfire and within a few hours, all of the flights were full with SAS kids. I planned to go with a group that I had only met a few days before. They were all good friends beforehand and had been travelling together the whole time. I decided to go for it and jumped aboard because it sounded like we had similar goals. We planned to leave early the morning of the second day and come back the morning of the third day. Who knew 24 hours could be so memorable.

Day 1: Getting through customs and immigration was equally as frustrating as India, but outside and more humid. Drenched in sweat, I found a cab with Lauren and our friend Taylor. We planned on doing some light shopping and going to the beach. We wanted to have a mellow day and just see Penang. Penang is a large island off the coast of the Malaysian mainland. It is fairly westernized, but still has a lot of culture and cool architecture. The taxi system in Malaysia is different than any I have ever experienced. There is no meter, or bargaining. Every single taxi driver knows the set price for every ride and will stick to it. They do not compete with one another and back each other up if there is ever a question. Whenever we tried to bargain, they just walked away and left us to find that every other driver would stick to that same price. Our taxi cab driver, named “Ballin”, gave us a little tour of the city and took us to the mall where we found Starbucks and Forever 21. I hadn’t seen these two staples in two months, and was very happy to do so. I got an iced coffee and shopped for a while before getting sick. I thought that I’d be safe because coffee seemed fine and Starbucks was so reliable in my mind, but I had completely forgotten about avoiding ice. Anyways, some Tums, Pepto Bismol, a lot of gum, and a few concerned Malaysians later- I learned my lesson: No more ice. I ended up skipping the rest of the day and coming back to the ship to rest, get ready, and pack. I met up with the new group and we made our way to a hotel, which they had found earlier that day. It was perfect! Three big beds in one room, clean, and perfectly suitable for the twelve people that planned to sleep in it. We stayed there for a while and relaxed before making our way to the reggae bar/hostel that some other SAS kids were at. It was one of our friends’ twenty-first birthday so we celebrated and had a lot of fun that night. I spent most of the night dancing with the toothless 65-year-old bouncer who introduced himself as Charlie Chaplain. The two of us, along with a few waiters and bartenders, had ourselves a great time and bounced around for most of the night. There are two things that I’ve learned on this trip when it comes to dancing. The first is that it is one of the best ways to learn about cultures. The way that different locals dance differs drastically from country to country and is very indicative of their lifestyles. The second is that it is the best way to get to know people. From now on, I will always accept and encourage dancing, in whatever setting, with whomever, from 5-year-old girls to 90-year-old men. Sometimes the language barrier is tough but everyone can dance and there’s nothing that produces more genuine smiling, which instantaneously breaks down every wall. I was the only SAS kid, or white person for that matter, but I didn’t care and the awkwardness was surmounted very quickly. We made our way back to the hotel around midnight, only to find a big issue that changed the rest of our trip. At the entrance of the small hotel, there’s an outside courtyard with a small restaurant and bar. Our room was right above the bar and earlier that day, while I was on the ship getting sick, my friends had put on suits and were hanging out in the rain on the roof. They thought it seemed pretty safe. That night when we got back, two of our friends were in chairs with their heads down, surrounded by hotel personnel and a few of our other friends. A group of 5 had come back earlier and two of them had walked out on the roof. They stood together on one panel and, to their surprise, fell through. The bartender said that he felt it shake and then just saw two girls fall from the sky. He told us that it was clearly a sign from heaven because two girls, covered in white, fell from the sky. The ambulance came and they went to the hospital. I stayed back and cleaned the room, hiding backpacks and trying to make it look like there was only four of us staying there in case the hotel workers came up to talk with us and investigate. Apparently the hospital was very clean and comparable to ours. The difference was that the nurses and doctors were the nicest people ever. They said that they were never too busy, no matter what was going on and were more helpful than any American health professional that they had encountered. For each girl’s consultation, X-rays, ultrasound, bandaging, and whatever else, it was 100 ringgits (approximately US$30). Stitches were included and no insurance was used. The people working at the hotel were the same- we thought that they would be furious but they were so sympathetic and just apologized over and over for the flimsy roof. Of course it was our fault, and I had expected some harsh feelings. Anyways, I didn’t sleep for 5 minutes that night. I laid down at one point but so much was going on, with people running in and out of the room, phone calls being made and hotel personnel inquiring, that I never relaxed. The girls had been brought back to the ship’s medical center on stretchers. Apparently one of the ship’s security men, Vladimir from the Ukraine, ordered over the walkie talkie “Do not touch the broken person” in his extremely strong accent. This whole fiasco proved to be a learning experience about the people and the systems in Malaysia- everyone was incredibly friendly, helpful and efficient.

Day 2: When the alarm went off, I was ready and excited for the day. The two girls that fell through the roof were definitely not making the flight and we got news from the ship that they were okay- no broken bones or serious issues- so we settled the roof payment (US $275 for a broken roof) and made our way to the airport. The 25-minute flight was unbelievable- it looked a little bit like Mauritius. The clear water was gorgeous and divided by hundreds of tiny, uninhabited islands. I immediately knew that we had made the right decision to come to Langkawi. We talked to the airport tourism woman who recommended the cheapest, best hostel to stay at. We rented a van and made our way to “Gecko Guest House”, a shanty little place that ended up being perfect. It was about $5/person and we got two rooms. The amenities weren’t 5-star by any means, but it was sufficient and the experience surpassed anything we expected. Langkawi is very mellow and the general look is board shorts and dreadlocks. The man who walked us through the booking procedure took an extra ten seconds to process each question before responding. He would just stare off in the distance and then look back and ask us to repeat the question. This was not a language barrier but I hope that my suspicions weren’t correct because he seemed like a nice guy and marijuana is punishable by the death penalty in Malaysia. Sam ended up becoming a friend and loved high-fiving me whenever we walked by. The hostel consisted of tiny individual rooms that surrounded the outside courtyard/ bar/ restaurant. There were 25 cats, all of which were incredibly cute and small and roamed freely. Sam knew all of their names and was quite proud of them. We left our stuff behind the bar for the day and walked down to the main street to find a taxi. We wanted to hike and find caves and waterfalls, so we talked to a man who would drive us around the island in his van for 6 hours and show us everything. This was the best 6 hours of my life, one-hundred percent. I could write pages and pages about every single thing we did but it would not do it justice. I’m going to leave most of it for pictures and hope that everyone reading this makes it to Langkawi once in their life. (If I become a millionaire, I’m definitely having a destination wedding here so everyone reading this- get excited). We went to a little café in the middle of rice patty farms. No one spoke English but we ended up getting thin Asian pancakes with really good sauce and paying 8 rinngits TOTAL- this is about 3 dollars total, for 7 people. We had a Pepto Party in order to not get sick and went on our way. The island is the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen, more so than any movie or photograph. We first went to a place where we could find someone to take us out on a boat and explore the little rivers. The little rivers curve around the mountains in the island and then deposit in the ocean in various places. We saw giant lizards, monkey families, and in one spot- hundreds of eagles. The roots of the trees lining the river were a few feet above the water and created a very mystical atmosphere. It was muggy and otherworldly and overwhelming. The boat threaded in and out of caves, where we saw bats and tons of other creatures. Finally, the boat dropped us off on a tiny beach that you can only reach by sea. Keep in mind that no one is around for any of this. There aren’t any tourists- we saw a few boats but no one was on the beach or the caves. We hiked up another cave and then walked out a long, gorgeous dock and jumped in. We swam and marveled at what was around us. The shore to the right was Malaysia and to the left, we could see Thailand. It was an outer body experience, and one I will never forget. Afterwards, we met up with our driver and went to a place where we could see waterfalls. We got out and immediately had cookies and a huge coconut stolen by monkeys. We then made the huge trek up the side of a mountain. It was the best workout- so beautiful and so much to look at. We hiked next to a waterfall, going straight up incredibly steep steps. At the top of the waterfall, we found an area that had natural-made rock water slides. There were a few other people there who had already found them, so we followed their lead, got in and had the time of our lives. Looking around was unreal. We were sliding down incredible, exhilarating slides in the middle of a tiny island off of Langkawi. Behind and around us were rain forests with monkeys. Below was a waterfall (there was a curve so you didn’t go down that) and then the ocean in front of you and, eventually, Thailand. Dreamlike. And then it started to rain. That just put it over the edge. I have never smiled harder. It was out of a movie; we went down the slide all together in disbelief that this was really happening. At that point, we went down to the bottom of the waterfall to look up and really see the height. We carried our clothes and did the whole hike down wearing suits and hiking shoes. At one point, on even ground, I decided to run with one other friend. It was the best run I have ever been on- so warm, raining, surrounded by a fantasy. We made it to the bottom only to find more slides. Only two went in because by now there was thunder and lightning. We watched and warned them to get out when the lightning and thunder got close together. On their way out, they learned their lesson. Somewhere close, the water was struck so their legs were shocked. It was minor but their muscles were shaking and cramped a little- pretty crazy and very scary. We made our way back to the van and headed back to the hostel. I had to throw my shirt and socks out because of how dirty it was. The shower consisted of a water spout in the bathroom that completely soaked the whole room, including the toilet and little ledge- there were no dividers. We went to a little café down the street and had burgers. The meat was red (not undercooked- just actually red from sauces, etc.), very different, and probably not a smart idea. Pepto party! We spent the rest of the night at the hostel, meeting other travelling students and backpackers, mainly from Australia and Sweden.

Day 3: We woke up early, cleaned up from the hectic and very fun previous night and made our way to the airport. By this time in the trip, most food hesitation has diminished. I devoured an egg sandwich from a bizarre fast food place and had a chocolate and peanut butter waffle. Incredible. We flew back and got back to the ship. I wasted an hour or two on the ship because my body was so dead. Three hours of sleep in two nights, an extremely vigorous day, and questionable food definitely took its toll. I then went to my scheduled orphanage trip, which was really disappointing. The kids only wanted to talk to us if we offered them toys. They didn’t seem to be orphans- one even told me that her mommy gave her her necklace. I sound like a horrible person, but to be honest- they were all just really bratty. It was such a contrast from all the extremely nice Malaysian adults we had met. We made our way back to the ship and through customs and immigration in time for the ship to leave at 6.

Malaysia was incredible and I am so eager to return. We were there for three days but I felt like it was a week. The second day feels like it was a dream and all of the people that I traveled with were so fun. I’m recovering and excited to get to Vietnam- three days!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

India

Jai Ho! Previous to docking in India, the ship’s crew covered the carpets in cardboard, hoping to minimize the dirt that the shipboard community would potentially track in. The general conversation before arriving revolved around the fact that India would be completely different than any port we have been to yet. Preparations were made in order handle the various things that would overwhelm the senses. We discussed the Indians’ idea of personal space and how their personal “bubble” is far smaller than Americans’. The dirt would take over and the smells would overpower. Wear closed-toed shoes at all times, watch out for crazy traffic, and get ready to throw your clothes out after wearing them. The percentage of students that the medical center expected to get food poisoning was frightening. One-sixth of the world’s population resides in India, and I could not wait to witness such a staggering statistic.

In my mind, I expected dusty, busy cities with a lot of poverty and some belly dancing. What I got was six days that seemed like two weeks that changed my life. It was dirty, but not as bad as we were told. The poverty was mind blowing and everywhere. It really made me realize and empathize the difference of lifestyles, rather than just acknowledging the chiasm. I know that I’m going to have a hard time recalling all of the experiences and communicating the spiritual encounters, but I will do my best. I apologize ahead of time because I already know that this blog post will be lengthy.

Day 1: I had a FDP for my management class to a Fair Trade Shop in Chennai. It wasn’t scheduled until 1pm so I spent the morning working out, having lunch, and packing. Getting out of the port in the buses in Chennai is a nightmare. The system that security has in place is incredibly ineffective and takes anywhere from 45 minutes to one hour and twenty minutes for big groups. They check each passport and each customs form and record it all for each individual person, one at a time. Most of the time security comes onto the buses and does it, instead of us getting off. The first time that we did this, we stopped for a while on railroad tracks. Sure enough, in the middle of the process, a train came roaring from around the corner and had to come to a halt in order to not hit us. This close call was very scary and our first taste of the lack of systems and organization that the country has in place. Looking out the window on our drive to the shop was a good first taste and was the first step in this culture shock. Seeing the mass amounts of people and cows roam the street was unnerving, almost as much so as the traffic. Buses of all sizes, bicycles, trucks, motorcycles, cars, auto rickshaws and bike rickshaws all push and nudge their way forward at any opportunity. There is almost no space in between different modes of transportation, lending a feeling that everyone is in a hurry. This constant rush hour affected every sense, stirring up massive amounts of dust and keeping everyone on edge with the constant horns. The horns were all different sounds and never-ending, acting as turn indicators. Drivers’ hands remained on their horns in an effort to push forward and show their presence and intentions on the road. Indian drivers only look forward, never to the side or in their rear-view mirror because they all look out for each other. Their only responsibility is what’s in front of them, which in fact keeps everyone safe because there is effectively always someone that you’re in front of. Our bus dropped us off on the side of a road at the entrance to a large alley, or narrow dirt road. Whatever it was, our group walked down it, still in awe of what was around us. The alley was lined with people of all ages, sitting and staring at us. They were clearly discussing our presence and equally as amazed as we were. Our complexions and home locations separated us but our differences in lifestyles defined the separation. Previous to our appearance, they had been living their daily lives, talking, eating, heading to work, washing clothes, and doing whatever else that maintained their existence. As we walked, they stared and waited for acknowledgement. Anytime I smiled, waved, or said “Hi” to an individual, it was genuinely reciprocated. They would never try and connect first, always waiting for us to make the first move. Their interaction with and respect for cows was apparent, as they walked up and down. Their bodies were covered in infected, oozing gashes and sores which attracted flies in mass quantities. Dogs ran through the streets, and we avoided them at all costs because of the rabies warnings. Apparently Indians consider dogs to be dirty and do not keep them as pets. On the other hand, cows are the holiest of creatures and looked at with much respect, more so than humans. Throughout India, no matter your income level, women wear bright colored saris or extravagant tunics with matching pants. Men, of course getting the easy option, wear jeans or pants with collared shirts. The Fair Trade shop offered us coconut water straight from the source and told us to remove our shoes, a general theme throughout India. They made different types of Indian jewelry, incense, and textiles, stressing dignity, sustainable development, workers’ rights, and fair tourism interaction. We met a 76-year-old woman who had had a large influence on fair and honorable business. She worked hard to become educated and ended up inducing many parts of various industries to change their ways. She was a Nobel Peace Price nominee and had even interacted with Ghandi. At the shop, I had my first Indian bathroom experience, which, to be honest, almost brought me to tears. I had heard that they would be gross but I had no idea. Growing up with a mother such as mine, who insists on washing your hands immediately after school and looks at never letting pants touch public floors as religion, I wasn’t ready for this. The bathroom was off of an office, and the floor was about two inches below the floor of the office room. This difference was made up by water. Keep in mind that I didn’t have shoes on. I was in awe at the depth of what I hoped was runoff from the sink. Squatting outside would have been a much better option but, at this point, I didn’t want to disrespect the nice woman who had showed it to me. I figured that since that was their normal routine, it couldn’t be that bad and embraced it. From then on during the trip, I was strangely comfortable with the level of grunge, dirt, and lack of hygiene. I am so glad that I did because had I not, I probably would have not shaken so many hands and hugged so many bodies, kissed a little boy, touched the Ganges, walked barefoot through temples, or ever used a restroom. This lack of disgust and level of comfort allowed me to be at ease and connect to the people and their everyday life on a deeper level.
        We were running late leaving the shop, and traffic getting back significantly delayed our return. Along with a few others on the FDP, I had planned to attend the Welcome Ceremony, but we assumed that we wouldn’t make it because we got back to the port entrance an hour later than that bus was scheduled to leave. Good thing security was so slow! Those buses were still waiting in line, so we hopped out of ours and ran to meet the others. This transfer was indicative of what was to come in this country… rough transportation, nonstop itineraries, and what I like to call- rallying. The Welcome Ceremony was in a big, grass courtyard and consisted of a henna station, dinner, a stage with traditional Indian dancing, and shopping opportunities. I had a dinner that I didn’t enjoy too much. It was really spicy and I was a little nervous about getting sick. The tea and coffee was the best that I have ever had. I got the inside of my palm and wrist decorated with henna. The artists were three sisters and this was their business, their main gig being weddings. My favorite part about this night was talking with the Chennai University students that were there. I hung out with two 19-year-old boys for most of the night, comparing lifestyles and cultures. They told us how their university takes three years and they live at home while attending. After graduating, they all hoped to attend Graduate School in the US. I was really interested in learning that their weddings were typically 10 days to one month long and girls’ parents saved for years and years to pay for the monumental event. We discussed the difference between arranged and “love” marriages and how India was slowly transferring to the later. He talked about how oftentimes arranged marriages worked out better but that you had to be married to someone in your, sometimes constricting, caste. Those who lived in cities typically opt for a “love” marriage and only are arranged if they do not find someone by their late twenties. Talking with these kids was a great experience and taught me a lot about their daily life. Afterwards, we came back to the ship and packed.

Day 2:
I had signed up for a 4-day trip through SAS to Delhi, Agra and Varanasi. I packed one backpack for the whole time- Dad, you would be so proud. We left at 9am the second day and took a lengthy bus ride to the Chennai airport. I was extremely excited to start this journey, full of energy and looking forward to the next few days. I finished the books that I packed for the entire voyage by South Africa, underestimating the amount of down time on the ship, so I bought Superfreakonomics in the airport. It ended up being a great purchase because the introduction was about women in rural India and how ill off they are. The recent introduction of television has increased their quality of life more than any type of government intervention. It rained when we walked from the terminal to the plane, which made me miss Oregon a little bit. It was warm rain, which is clearly different but still made me feel connected. The plane looked exactly like an American one, except, surprisingly, cleaner. The only strange part was the immense fog that circulated inside, which came from the humidity outside, which made it difficult to see a few rows ahead of you. Upon reaching Delhi, our first stop was a Seik temple, which was where I had my biggest jaw-dropping moment, the first of many on this India trip. We covered our heads with small, orange triangular scarves and removed our shoes. Stepping through a pool of water in order to cleanse my feet, I walked into the grandeur marble building. The carpet was mustard yellow and the walls were gold and painted with various religious pictures. In the center of the one square giant room was the focal point. There was a stage that worshippers gathered around, decorated in metallic gold and incredibly bright colors. Three men were sitting off to the side playing traditional instruments, singing, and worshipping. The fluorescent pinks and blues was what made it so shocking to me. The entire thing looked so aggressive and pungent, and definitely what I would have considered to be tacky previous to this experience. The incredibly bright colors that you consider to be stereotypical of India but not actually what is presented in the country are real. The temples, saris, and decorations are brighter and shinier than you would expect. Indian people were all around the stage, face down and kissing the floor. They were clearly delving into a religious experience, one that meant a lot to them. The children that were there did not participate as children do in church in the US. They seemed to be affected and willing to be there. I asked our guide how often people visited the temple and he said it varies. I asked what the normal amount is and he responded anywhere from one to five times a day. Again, “varies” is very relative, depending on where you are. Afterwards, we went next door to a kitchen that is run on donations and supports the homeless and hungry. We walked around it in a circle, passing the various stations. When we passed the vegetable station, the man stirring the food, picked me out and motioned for me to come over. I stepped up on the platform and stirred the potato and cabbage mixture in the biggest wok I’ve ever seen. The spoon that stirred the mixture was about 5 feet tall and required some serious instruction. I’m not sure why Indians liked me so much on this trip but there was multiple times throughout the week where I was picked out of the group to do special things that no one else got to do. This was one of them and I will always remember it, along with the conversation that I had with the man afterwards. The street in front of the temple was not much different than most of the streets in India but, for some reason, it sticks out in my memory most. There were many disfigured people, especially children, begging. The scene in “Slumdog Millionaire” where children are mutilated in order to bring in bigger profits while begging continuously came to mind. There was a dog sitting a few feet away from our bus and a boy around fifteen walked by and kicked it, hard and square in the side, for no reason. It hurt to see that and really illustrated the hurt that many experience. There were a lot of Indians around him and they did not look surprised by this in the slightest. Afterwards, we went to a Hindu temple. Their main symbol is the swastika, and I’m still not sure why. It is printed everywhere and is very important to them. We discussed a few out of the millions of gods and again and marveled at the magnificent colors. On our way out, we caught the end of their evening ritual. The Hindus that were there at the time all stood in the entrance hallway and chanted to the music that was being made by the two men and one woman off to the side. One man was behind the gold railings and honoring the shrine by tossing a variety of religious artifacts around. The color orange is hugely religious to Hindus, so orange carnations are everywhere and used in every religious experience. We left the temple and made our way back to the hotel. I had been sitting next to a man named John, a life long learner who is probably about seventy-five, from Phoenix. He has been to over 100 countries, and to his favorite, Antarctica, six times. He decided with his wife after graduating from UCLA not to have children so that they could travel as much as possible. Anyways, he took a liking to me and would give me little gifts throughout the trip and always ask my opinion about various cultural issues. My first gift was a book that had a section on India, and in specific Varanasi. I set down Superfreakonomics to read this book, which discussed a lot of what we had been seeing. One section in particular talked about the driving and talked about how, in India, all you need is “a good horn, good brakes, and good luck”. Our tour guide repeated this exact phrase and I showed him the passage in the book. He went on to say that when it comes to driving, when you speak the same language, you understand. If it were more organized, accidents would be far more prevalent. Yellow lights indicate to “look”, not to “slow”, as they do in America. We arrived at our hotel, the Ashok, which was 5 Star. One thing that you can count on with Semester at Sea trips is that the accommodations will be nice. This was originally a con for me, and still is a little bit, because it does seem to take a little of the authenticity out of the experience. However, after travelling all day, I was not complaining about having food that wouldn’t get me sick and a comfortable bed. Our dinner was a delicious buffet that gave me a better taste of Indian food than the Welcome Reception had. The next morning was an early wakeup call so Lauren and I made our way back to our room (complete with turn down service and free slippers).



Day 3: We woke up at 4:15 and met in the lobby at 4:45. Our packed box breakfasts had a few questionable items so I traded many of them for the hardboiled eggs. I had eight by the end of my trading but only ate five because a few were discolored. We got to the train station, hopped on the Shatabdi Express, and made our way to car C10. The station was a very dirty and sad place. Witnessing all the poverty in the form of the sleeping homeless being swarmed with gnats and mosquitoes was a visual that will be with me for a very long time. I had packed a sleeping mask and earplugs so I slept for most of the time. We arrived and made our way to the Taj Mahal. Upon arriving, we cut the line of the hundreds of Indians waiting for hours to enter. This was another instance where my complexion made me very uncomfortable. I didn’t like how we were just assumed to be impatient Americans and I would have rather have waited in line. I feel like a lot of big, worldly sights can be disappointing because they are built up so much before visiting. I was a bit disappointed in the Eiffel Tower so I half-expected to have a similar response. The Taj Mahal was everything that I expected, and more. A Mughal Emperor, in memory of his wife, built the Taj. What an amazing present, eh? I’d take one of the New Seven Wonders of the World over diamonds any day. We walked around and took a bunch of pictures. A lot of Indians approached us and asked to take pictures with us. By the end, it was a little annoying because they would just stand in lines and not take no for an answer. We must have posed for over 50 with them. On the walk from the Taj to our bus, the streets were lined with monkeys. I had just bought an ice cream and was walking down the street when one started to approach me. Monkeys are one of the lead carriers of rabies so we know to keep a safe distance. I hurried away, making my way through a big group of people. It ran after to me and someone yelled at me to drop my ice cream just before it got to me. Somehow it had not occurred to me that this was why it was after me. It was a very scary and a very close call. I threw down the dessert just in time and realized immediately that death by monkey would be one of the worst ways to go. After the Taj, we made our way to the Agra Fort, which I regret not getting as much as possible out of. I was so hot and tired and overwhelmed by the Taj that I didn’t walk and explore the whole thing, remaining in the shade. The architecture was magnificent but by this time, we were exhausted. After the Agra Fort, we headed to lunch at a hotel, another extensive buffet. The hotel had made shirts that had a picture of the Taj Mahal on the front and “Welcome Semester at Sea” written on the back. They really knew how to capitalize on us. Afterwards, we headed to Fatehpur Sikri, a red sandstone deserted city in honor of a Muslim Saint. It was pretty far off the road and there were not many tourists there at all. There were, in fact, about thirty elementary kids in school uniforms hanging out there. We talked with them for a little while until one of them grabbed me and pulled me away from the SAS kids, gave me a pen, and asked me to sign their hand. She shouted something to the rest of them and I was promptly mobbed and made to sign my name on thirty kids palms. (A bunch of people took pictures and videos of this). Apparently, they thought that I was an actress in a movie that they had recently seen. I’m afraid that they’ll be disappointed if and when they compare my signature to whatever actress’ name they thought that I was. On the walk back to the bus, I made a friend named Peter. He was initially haggling me to buy souvenirs but I ended up talking to him for the entire walk back. He spoke English, Hindu, French, Spanish, and Italian. The cynicism in me thinks that he might have just learned one phrase in each in order to impress tourists and induce heightened prices for whatever he was selling. Nevertheless, I bought in and talked to him about his hopes for the future. I ended up buying a package of jeweled pens for 100 rupees ($2) and gave him one US dollar as a souvenir. I got back on the bus, found a few little candies from the hotel and hurried back out to give them to him. He hugged me and told me that I was the best US friend he ever had and asked for a kiss. Of course, I kissed him on the cheek. He was SUCH a cute little boy and I hope that one day he gets to come to America to satisfy his fascination. On this bus ride, I saw out the window a dog that looked exactly like Possum at home. This was so rare because all of the other dogs are skinny labs or like the dogs that you see in Mexico. It was a beautiful Border Collie, same coat and markings, with little dirt and scratches. It made me miss my puppy at home and made me realize that this was the farthest away from home I felt. I was exactly 12 ½ hours around the world (India time zones are broken up by ½ hours). Halfway around the world and I finally truly felt far, far away. On a ship, it feels like we are remaining stagnant and the places are coming to us. India felt other-worldly and even though it made me a little sad, I enjoyed the sentiment. Café Yumm in Eugene and Balboa Island in Newport now seem like they’re from another life. It’s easy to say but difficult to feel and I’m just now feeling the great distance. Now, when I’m traveling through countries and I want to get home, I think of the ship and my comfy cabin as home. Our train from Agra back to Delhi was delayed so we stopped at a few stores. The first was a rug factory that had a variety of other high-quality goods. The second was mainly textiles, jewelry, and spices. (Tiff- I almost bought you a bunch of cooking spices but apparently they were stale and wouldn’t be good.) I tried to bargain for tea but I think that I offended him because after we agreed to a price, he asked me to leave his store. Apparently I didn’t realize the value of what he was selling. We had Pizza Hut and got back on the train to our hotel. This day seemed like it lasted for weeks. On the train back, I slept for about twenty minutes (during which, I slept talked a lot, apparently) and then was wide-awake thinking over the events of the day. It is a bizarre sensation when your body is beyond tired but your mind is spinning so that sleep is not even an option. We made it back to the hotel and got a few hours of sleep before the next day.

Day 4: We made our way to the airport where we took a plane to Varanasi. We immediately drove to the hotel where we would be staying that night, the Ramada, to have lunch. It was again very nice and lunch was incredible. Every sit-down meal I had in all of India was buffet-style. Afterwards, we went outside of Varanasi to Sarnath, an area that houses an archeological museum, a Buddhist temple, and remains of an ancient monastery. A few girls and I were not so excited to take tours so we checked out of the group setting and walked around. We went in the Buddhist temple (where Buddha preached his first sermon) and walked around the ancient remains. The remains were extensive and very interesting to see. Afterwards, we still had a bunch of time so we walked around and talked with locals and bought a few knickknacks. I only had 5 rupees (approximately 10 cents) and that would only buy me one item that one stand offered. I told him that I wasn’t interested in that one and I just gave him the 5R donation. He was very offended and gave it back to me and asked me to go buy chips a few stands over. This was a cool experience because it was my first sense of how they truly value the act of exchange and how they wanted to stimulate their economy (even if he didn’t realize what he was doing). Another thing that really struck me here, even though we had seen it many times before, was witnessing a ten-year-old girl begging, holding an infant that couldn’t have been more than six months old. The baby looked drugged and was being held in the worst, most uncomfortable way. It was so sad and really made me think about how that child had no say in where or in what circumstances she was born into. We made our way back to the hotel for our earliest night yet to shower and have dinner. Lauren and I broke off from the group and ate with some lifelong learners, an adorable couple that I grew to love. Bud and Martha, 76-years-olds and from New Orleans, were widows that married ten years ago. They discussed each of their grandchildren in depth and told fantastic stories. I was in awe of how they were keeping up with this tough itinerary when 20-year-olds were so tired. At the end of the itinery printed before signing up, there was a warning about how it was action-packed and rigorous travel. I love the fact that that did not deter them almost as much as their apparent gumption for life and hope to hang out with them more on the ship. Afterwards, we joined our friends at another table. Chelsea is a good friend of mine on the ship and her aunt had joined us in India. She was doing the same SAS trip so she came everywhere with us. She travels a lot and discussed the magnitude of this trip with us, highlighting that it would not fully impact us for years to come. I really enjoyed hearing her perspective at this point of the trip. Afterwards, 6 out of the group of 40 went to the hotel bar. I could not believe that we were about to drink and party after being up for so many hours and having to wake up at 4am. When in INDIA! We drank and hung out with the bartenders (Fahad will always hold a special place in my heart… we discussed Britney Spears for a good twenty minutes). Around 11:30, when the reasonable decision was to go to bed, we decided that this was not the trip nor the location to be reasonable. We decided to change and make the most of the night. Five of us rallied like we never had in our lives, walked out of the hotel and rented two bicycle rickshaws. There is nothing like riding through Varanasi, India in the middle of the night knowing you have to wake up in four hours. Admittedly, I was pretty scared and was not thinking that it was a good idea at all but we were with guys and, in the end, I knew it would be an amazing experience. Earlier in the day I had ran into my friend Austin who had told me his room number at a different hotel. We somehow saw that hotel and went in, woke them up, ordered way too many drinks, and partied in his hotel room. After breaking a few bottles and making a lot of enemies in the rooms surrounding us, we sleepily headed back to the Ramada and got in an hour nap before waking up for the Ganges!

Day 5: Anybody in their right mind would be comatose after the past few days and night we had, and everybody else was. For some reason, this trip has 360ed me. I have never been great about running off so little sleep. I get cranky and am not one to rally without a solid nap. Not here, for some reason. Most were sleepy and inhaling coffee, as anyone in their right mind should be. I, on the other hand, was singing and taking pictures and just loving life. Still drunk? Probably. Slap happy? Absolutely. In India? Hell yeah. We made our way to the Ganges for their morning ceremony, which was my favorite experience in India, and the entire voyage thus far. I’m not going to try and fully describe what this was like, because I think that pictures will do a better job. Even still, the Ganges is a place that will never be understood until visited. It is the holiest location for Hindus. Some come every morning to bathe and some come only to cremate their loved ones. It is lined with Ghats which look like they are hundreds and hundreds of years old. They are actually fairly new and rebuilt often because they deteriorate so quickly, but knowing that takes something away from their impact. The shore is lined with people submerging themselves in the river, for both hygienic and spiritual reasons. Hundreds of boats are tied up and concrete bathing facilities are always in use. We motored upriver and then floated back downriver, all the while in awe of what was going on around us. There was a little girl on our boat who was selling orange flowers and candles for us to put in the river as a Hindu honor. The girl told us that she lives with her parents, 3 siblings, two grandmothers, one grandfather, and one aunt (10 people) in a one-room house. On the shores of the river, people were being cremated and ashes were thrown in the river. The most holy way that a Hindu person can be remembered is to be cremated and put in the Ganges river. If a pregnant woman, child, cow, or holy authority dies, they will not be cremated. Instead, they will be taken to the center and weights will be tied to them to sink the body. Seeing the fires on the shore was a very real experience that I will always remember. On the way back to the bus, we had a long walk through an alley that we did not walk through on the way there. It was narrow, about three people shoulder width apart. The smells were foul and overwhelming but nowhere near as overpowering as the sights we witnessed. We were constantly being shoved and stepped on by the Indians living in this slum, who were making their way through. As we combed through the dark, filthy alley, we were haggled by relentless merchants, shouted at, and gawked at. Tourists clearly did not visit here. At one point, we brushed up against a corpse being brought down to the Ganges. At this point, an Asian SASer took out his camera and snapped a ton of pictures of it. I have truly never been more ashamed of being American. It was such an obvious display of ignorance and disrespect. I snapped at him and he stopped, but he will never be forgiven in my mind. The emotional reaction that the Indian woman had when viewing his behavior proved that what he did was unforgiveable. One merchant would not leave me alone and insisted on me buying a do-it-yourself body art set. I didn’t want to buy one but he would not leave me alone for the duration, about thirty minutes. Upon reaching the bus, he offered to give it to me for a kiss. I was frazzled, distraught, and disturbed and I refused. This walk was one of the hardest things that I’ve ever had to do and I had tears on the way home. There’s no way to fully describe that experience and I don’t have any pictures from it but it will never be forgotten. We made our way back to the hotel and I said goodbye to Fahad. We got to the Varanasi Airport and took the flight to Delhi, where we had a long layover. We went to a café where we got lunch, amazing mochas, and coffee cake. We were drained from the day but the coffee and cake gave us tons of energy. A few of us went upstairs to the bar/gentlemen’s club before going back to the terminal. Once inside, my group of friends randomly started dancing in the middle of the airport. We were so tired but so in love with our lives and at the time, it seemed appropriate. The ten of us were doing the various dances we had learned in Ghana, South Africa, and India and jumping up and down. This was a moment that is still very much with me. When would we ever be in Delhi, dancing in the middle of an airport for a half hour, waiting for a flight with great friends? The rest of SASers from our trip, along with throbs of Indians stared, laughed, and took pictures and videos. We got on the second flight back to Chennai. This was our last transport and I hoped that maybe I would get some sleep on this last trip but, of course, I was wide-awake the entire time. We got back to the ship around 10. I got ready to go out but at the last minute decided that my body would probably shut down so I went to bed.

Day 6: I woke up and had a few hours before leaving for the orphanage visit I had scheduled. I probably could have and should have gone out and explored Chennai a little bit but security is such a hassle and I decided that I would instead take the time to get organized, relax, and work out. We left on the orphanage visit at noon. When we stepped outside, I had a strange realization. This was by far the hottest, most humid heat that I had ever been in and I was strangely accepting of it. We headed to the orphanage and immediately were led inside by elementary age kids. I was in awe of how cute these kids are. Was it a publicity stunt? Do they only let the attractive and charismatic ones interact with visitors in order to create superficial bonds and funding? It was a horrible thought but definitely crossed my mind. By the end, I knew that that was not true but that the kids were just that adorable. They made every effort to speak English and interact with us. Barely anyone asked for anything; they were just excited to receive. A lot of SAS kids (myself not included, for which I regretted instantly) brought bags of coloring books, toys, crayons, etc. We colored in coloring books and played with cameras. They LOVE to take pictures and then turn it around to see the product; this never got old. A few of the older Indian girls performed a rehearsed dance and then, to our surprise, expected one in return. A few of us got up and did the maccarena, and a few others. They seemed extremely unimpressed until the hokie pokie, which they recognized and promptly joined in. We played for a few hours, meeting new kids and moving from room to room. The entire time, one girl stuck by my side. Devida is one of the cutest, most talented little girls I have ever encountered. She was initially very shy but after a little while, very friendly. She participated in some of the songs and dances and was incredibly attentive. She drew pictures outside with chalk that were incredible. The most impressive thing was her tact and class; she wasn’t pushy when it came to getting gifts and was massively polite when it came to asking to use the camera. I feel like she was my younger sister or daughter and I’m so excited to show off pictures of her. To those of you that said I would fall in love with some guy from the Midwest on the ship- you were wrong. I fell in love with a little girl named Devida in an Indian orphanage. When leaving, we hugged for a long time and she just kept saying “Best friends. Friends strong. You and I are friends” over and over in every different way possible. We had to be torn apart. I left my extra rupees with the orphanage in a hope that in some way it will enhance the life of this little girl or ones like her.

India was, in a way, nothing at all what I expected. In another, it was everything that I expected and more. It wasn’t dirty in the way that we heard. I don’t have to throw away my clothes and I wasn’t upset by the filth. Instead, I feel so bad for the people that I met and for those I didn’t that these are their standards. They are used to throwing all trash on the floor and regarding the rare trash can as superfluous. Children are raised from a young age that this is okay- it is their culture. Putting your banana peel on your classroom floor after lunch is the norm. If this is what is normal, where is the hope for clean streets? The amount of open sores on people and the disfigurement affected me in ways that it hasn’t when I have seen it in the US. It is so shocking when you see it in mass amounts of people, I think, because there is a greater chance that it would have been your reality had you lived here. India is truly the land of contrast. The wealth and poverty live simultaneously and the opposite ends of the spectrum are so extreme that it appears as if no one is in the middle. A woman with a removed nose and small drop of puss in place of an eye, begging, lives outside of the apartment building of a family who spends equal to 10 million US (this is not an exaggeration) on their wedding. In classes back home, the role of women is visited over and over and their unfortunate situations are re-examined often. However, I have never felt it more than here. Everything about being a woman is so drastically worse than being a man in this country. Discipline and beating from your husband is a regular occurrence for some, mainly in rural India. The orphanage was 90% girls because parents leave them in trash cans and on train tracks. The same parents’ sons are their pride and joy. Pregnant mothers are starting to have ultra sounds- not to search for health issues, but to see the sex of her baby in order to decide whether to abort or not. Our tour guide mentioned a few times that India was the largest English speaking country in the world. This is true solely because of their immense size. The population is hard to fathom and because of it, there are more English speakers in India than the US. After returning to the ship and talking with a lot of other kids, I have found that a lot of people did not have the same emotional and moving experience that I did. I don’t think that I would have had I not gone to Varanasi, but the country as a whole truly changed my views. Varanasi did it for me because of how authentic it was. They were not used to white people, at all. A lot of homestays in Ghana or South Africa provided an opportunity for kids to go to villages and stay with families. Although this is very authentic, the families prepare for you. You aren’t merely dropped into their lives without notice. It didn’t make a difference to them that we were there or not. They went on with their lives, which are so different than ours, and this candid experience is why I was blown away and am still reeling. Today is our first day back on the ship and I’m emotionally and physically drained. I’m sure than I forgot a lot but this is long enough. India is somewhere that I really want to come back to. It’s not a vacation type of place, but a place to go to when you really want to think and be violently thrown out of your comfort zone. Next stop: MALAYSIA!!

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Tutu, Mauritius & Sea Olympics!

DESMOND TUTU:
After South Africa’s “on ship time” – the steadfast time of the day that we have to be on board with our passport’s returned after port- we had a guest speaker. Admittedly, I lack knowledge on international affairs, as well as a general sense of what is going on in the world. This includes noteworthy people. Before leaving on SAS, a few people had informed me of the significance of Desmond Tutu speaking on the ship, but I did not know a lot about him. I got to the room where he was going to speak with the friends that I had spent the last day in South Africa with an hour early. We had prime seats in the second row and chitchatted about what our past few days had consisted of. A few minutes in to his talk, I had become semi-ashamed that I had not previously known who he was. He was a great speaker, and it was my favorite talk that I had been to. He was clearly important and wise, without being pretentious or mentioning his achievements. He discussed the importance of human connection and relationships- which seamlessly associated the idea of umbuntu that had been drilled into us the entire voyage. He spoke with stories and jokes- all of which ended with his high-pitched, unforgettable laugh. Needless to say, I enjoyed him very much and think that everyone should YouTube a talk of his- even just a short one. You won’t regret it!

MAURITIUS:
Global Citizens is a company that plans and sells SAS trips for students while in port. They are a less-expensive, sometimes more popular, alternative to the excursions directly from the SAS field office. One of their most popular trips is the one-day catamaran in Mauritius. I decided to purchase this one, along with 140 of my closest friends. We made our way out of port and climbed onto a few buses. They were rinky-dink, crowded buses with no air conditioning and seats that looked like they could break at any moment. This was definitely a different experience, compared to the 5-star buses that SAS seemed to find in every country. The 45-minute drive to the catamaran proved to beneficial because it was just what I needed to fully convince myself that this country really did exist. Before SAS and a Wikipedia search, I had had no idea that Mauritius was real, let alone where it was and what it consisted of. From what I’ve gathered, it’s a type of Bahamas for Europeans. Many Europeans come here to vacation, for clear water and beautiful beaches. We got to the beach and docks where our catamaran was.  After some serious confusion (it wouldn’t be a new country if there wasn’t any), we finally figured out which catamaran was ours and jumped aboard. There were four boats for the entire group so we split up and got our bearings. The boat was similar, but smaller than, the one that I have been on many times in Maui- the Paragon. To most SASers, the most attractive feature of Global Citizens’ Mauritius itinerary was the open bar onboard. To their dismay, it was very limited and did not live up to their expectations. (Good news for me, the 1/140th voluntary sober population). After they got over that disappointment, the reality of where we were and what we were doing began to set in. We were on a tiny island off the east coast of Africa. We were with a ton of kids the very same age as us. We were on our way to our own private island. We could see the bottom of the ocean below us. This was yet another unreal experience that most of us would never live again. On the way out to the island, we laid out in the hot sun and danced our little hearts away. Dancing on tables and benches while on a small catamaran going over monstrous waves is a dangerous idea and many have bruises and scratches to show for it. We arrived at the island in disbelief. Some had been to the Bahamas or Cook Islands, but many of us had not and this was all new. There were many small white-sand islands, with incredibly shallow water in between them. We all jumped off the anchored boats and swam in to one island- SAS took over. We took tons of pictures, found friends from other boats, and floated along the shores. Most were too intoxicated to snorkel but it was probably just as well because there wasn’t many fish when I tried. The coral was very sharp along the shallow parts so a lot of people cut their feet or stomachs. I had bought an underwater disposable camera in South Africa so we tried to make use of it but I have no idea how they will turn out. I was in amazement, taking it all in. There’s literally nothing on the planet that I would have rather done that day. We had a ton of friends, all together, partying on our own private island in Mauritius. “Fun” doesn’t even begin to describe. We swam back to the boat for a late BBQ lunch and to head back. I have a flip video camera where I’ve been trying to document as much as possible for my mom and dad & grandparents- so there’s a lot of videos that I’ve had friends give a little intro as to where we are and what we’re doing that start out with “Hi Anna’s parents! Today we’re…”. The funniest one thus far is on this catamaran. My friend Austin drunkenly starts out “Hi Anna’s parents!” and proceeds to explain his creative contraption: a beer bong filled with Jungle Juice, made out of a snorkel. The captain of the catamaran was a self-proclaimed “doctor” that was helping the SASers stay hydrated with his “medicine”- an extremely strong alcohol concoction. Anyways- Mom & Dad- as you can see, I’m learning a lot. Unfortunately, I got pretty seasick towards the end of the trip and had to stay at the back of the catamaran, staring at the horizon. Somehow, while every other girl was still in their cute bikinis, I ended the day wrapped in a big towel, with a sweatshirt on top, and a backwards hat. I truly looked like a mess but it was just a sign of a really good time. We got back to land where Lauren and I found a stand that made crepes. On the ledge, it had a big jar of Nutella (my new favorite food). We bartered for a while, explaining that we just wanted to buy the jar and not a crepe, but it wasn’t an option. The whole exchange was hilarious and the language barrier made for a really difficult time. We came away empty handed and thoroughly discouraged. Two casualties on the Mauritius trip that are worthy to write home about: My really good friend Sarah from SMU fell over on the catamaran and chipped her front teeth off. Luckily she doesn’t remember the pain, or it happening at all, but she is a gorgeous girl that now has a distorted smile for a while… Also, Joe (Erin- your friend from Denver!) was blacked out during the transition from catamaran to bus, and he got on a public bus instead of a SAS Global Citizens one. He ended up in a tiny Mauritian village with no money and no shirt and had to haggle his way back to the ship- missing “on ship” time and barely making it before we set sail- or whatever cruise ships do. Neither of these situations are ideal, but both made great stories.

SEA OLYMPICS:
Sea Olympics are a big deal on SAS. We have heard about it since getting on- it’s even bigger than Neptune Day (the day when people shave their heads). You are split up into Seas based on the hallway you live in. I’m in the Baltic Sea and we have been strong the whole time- I have a ton of friends that live in this hallway, thus are in the Baltic Sea. It is filled with athletic, smart, and funny people- all of which make for a diverse and strong Sea Olympics team. Note: They have come to accept and love my uncoordinated, seemingly noncontributing self as one of their own. As big as Sea Olympics is, there is little to no preparation or practice involved. I signed up for Taboo and the Reverse Spelling Bee. In addition to these two events, I agreed to mixing the music and choreographing our synchronized swimming performance. Sarah (the one who chipped her teeth) and I made the music two nights before Mauritius- it was a 3-minute 90’s throwback mix of epic scale. Making this was so fun and just pumped us up more and more. After the music was made, I came up with a hilarious routine for the boys- the four funniest guys in the Baltic. They were really determined and dedicated and by the end- SO good. I was very proud of the little synchronized swimmers that they became throughout our practices. The morning of Sea Olympics brought a lot of excitement. The Baltic Sea made a line and piled into Lauren and my room in groups of 5 to get their faces/bodies painted and hair strewn with ribbons. Two other girls made our chant and it was practiced until the last minute. We gathered together for the Opening Ceremony in the Union- the biggest room on the boat. We scoped out the competition and felt confident. Our spirit and capable members were clearly unparalleled. (If you have experienced me during Derby Days- you know my general vibe during events such as this. Second place is nothing better than the first loser. ) All the chants were performed and judged (we got first, obviously). The rest of the day was a cluster of confusion- there was at least twenty events, many going on at the same time, so keeping track of all of it was difficult. I was quite frantic running around but loving it so much. We were clearly ahead and had delegated the perfect people for each event. The 4 of us in Taboo lost horribly, but that was to be expected and not a big event. I had my last practice with Synchronized Swimming on the side of the boat before their big performance. I was like a proud mama bear when they all nailed it the very last time. They gathered in my room to have their costumes perfected and makeup done and they decided that I was a crazy future-soccer mom. If this is what soccer moms do, sign me up. Their performance was SO good. I think that it was hard for them to hear the music so the beginning and some of the timing was off but their faces were perfect and they really gave it their all. We tied for first! This upset me at first but the other team did a decent job as well. Last was the big reverse spelling bee in the Union, where three people from every sea competed. Spelling backwards, out loud, when you can’t correct yourself, is a lot harder than it sounds. I was the last one in from the Baltic Sea so there was a lot of pressure. I didn’t win (hugely disappointing) but I lost on spelling the name of a professor: Frolander-Ulf, which is foreign and pronounced strange. Anyways, we had fajita night (huge deal on SAS) and made our way into the Union. At the closing ceremonies, it was announced that the BALTIC SEA WON!! (Like there was any way we wouldn’t…) Anyways- moral of the story: our sea/hallway is the best. We get a free party in one of the lounges before India and get off the ship first in Fort Lauderdale, which apparently is really nice because it takes forever. Sea Olympics was SO fun and I am dead tired.

Next stop: INDIA! So many plans for these 6 days- the blog post will be epic, promise.